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ZE... 2 Joseph S Wisniewski wrote:The ZF (Nikon mount) Zeiss lenses have an aperture ring. You can use them with an inexpensive Nikon to Canon adapter, just like you'd use with Nikon lenses themselves. The Zeiss ZE lenses for Canon mount have exactly the same problem Canon lenses do. You don't have to restrict yourself to totally manual focus Nikkors, you can also use AF lenses as long as they're not "G" types.For video, even 1080p HD, pretty much any Nikkor or Zeiss lens has sufficient quality, so it's more a matter of what matches the focal lengths that you need. If you're a zoom sort of person, that pretty much means Nikon.There's also a trick some Canon timelapsers use that scares the crap out of me. Use a Canon lens, set your aperture, hit the DOF preview, dismount the lens without turning off the camera. The lens is now set to your desired aperture. Cover the contacts on the lens with tape, and remount it. Again, I would not do this, there's just too many things that can go wrong. I only mention it now because, if you're Googling around, you're going to get someone who says "sure, just do this". Well, don't.Sure. First, rent or borrow the lens before you buy.Second, depending on the severity of the flicker, and your workflow, you might want to try a "deflicker" program like GBdeflicker or LRTimelapse. They both have free trials.If you want something totally free, but considerably more awkward, VirtualDub has a flicker filter.They work differently, you use LRTimelapse if you have a pile of raws and use Lightroom, GBdeflicker or VirtualDub if you have converted to a pile of JPEGs already or even a video file.Wow Joseph, you have got the reply I was looking for! THANKS you da' man!I use after effects and will look into some de-flicker programs/plug-ins for a temporary fix. I was able to subdue the artifact somewhat by speeding up the timelapse by about 60%, which incidently works better for the :15 sec shot I was shooting for. (I'll post up my shot in a few days, right now I'm putting graphics, music, and vo on it, as its a spec commercial)I know you said renting a lens will be best, and luckily i have some great resources around portland, oregon for it. However I would hate to buy a Zeiss lens for a Networks, specifically those utilizing 802.11 wireless LAN technology. more info... More VeraCrypt 1.26.20 VeraCrypt by VeraCrypt Foundation is a powerful open-source encryption software that enables users to secure their sensitive data by creating encrypted virtual disks and containers. more info... More Stellar Data Recovery 11.0.0.8 This tool recovers deleted data, photos, videos, PPT, PDF, DOCX & many more from Recycle Bin, HDDs, SSDs & any other external storage media.Stellar Data Recovery Free is an easy-to-use software that helps you recover all types of … more info... T More TFTUNLOCK 3.1.1.1 TFTUNLOCK is a software tool created by Iq-Team, Inc. It is designed to unlock the screen of Android devices with thin film transistor (TFT) display panels. more info... More UltraEdit 31.3.0.8 Review of UltraEdit by IDM Computer Solutions, Inc.UltraEdit is a powerful text editor developed by IDM Computer Solutions, Inc. that is designed for developers, programmers, and power users who require advanced text editing features. more info... More Send To Toys 2.71 Send To Toys: A Comprehensive ReviewSend To Toys by Gabriele Ponti is a simple yet powerful software application designed to enhance the functionality of the "Send To" context menu in Windows. more info... More Avast Home Edition 10.0.2208 Review of Avast! Home EditionAvast! Home Edition, developed by Avast Deutschland GmbH, is a comprehensive antivirus software designed to provide users with advanced protection against malware, viruses, and other online threats. more info... Additional titles containing gbdeflicker ключ Х С Э М Э

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Software can also help minimize the impact of the strobing flashes. GODOX Lux Junior Retro Camera Flash GN12 6000K Color Temperature Auto & Manual Modes 1/1-1/64 Flash Power 28mm Focal Length Replacement for Canon Nikon Sony... Amazon price updated: March 23, 2025 2:00 pm What are some tips for avoiding strobing camera flashes in DSLR footage?To avoid strobing camera flashes in DSLR footage, you can try using a slower shutter speed when shooting in environments with artificial lighting. You can also adjust the frame rate of your camera to match the frequency of the lighting source to reduce the strobing effect. Using an external flash with a consistent output can also help minimize strobing in your footage. Lastly, consider shooting in locations with natural lighting to avoid the issue altogether.Can I fix strobing camera flashes in post-production if they are already present in my DSLR footage?Yes, you can fix strobing camera flashes in post-production if they are already present in your DSLR footage. As mentioned earlier, using video editing software with de-flicker effects can help reduce the impact of strobing flashes. You can also try adjusting the exposure and color correction settings to minimize the visibility of the flashes. However, it’s always best to try and avoid strobing in the first place by following the tips mentioned earlier.Are there specific plugins or tools designed to remove strobing camera flashes from DSLR footage?Yes, there are specific plugins and tools designed to remove strobing camera flashes from DSLR footage. Plugins like GBDeflicker for Adobe After Effects or Flicker Free for Final Cut Pro are popular choices for reducing flicker caused by strobing flashes. These plugins analyze the footage and apply algorithms to smooth out the exposure changes caused by the flashes, resulting in a more consistent and flicker-free final product.

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Kraemer wrote:Ive got a canon 5D3 and am beginning to do timelapse. I have the 24-105 L lens and used the aperture priority on my 1st timelapse. It was a sunset-to-night shot. I noticed a slight flickering. It was recommended by one colleague that I use manual aperture lenses because even tho I shot with my lens of F5.6, the aperture opens and closes each time the camera fires, and it doesn't make it to the "exact same F5.6 "Despite what the other two "contributors" to this thread said about that being "bogus" or there being a "far more plausible explanation", the aperture inconsistency between shots is indeed the most common cause of flickering in time-lapse sequences.Will a fully manual lens alleviate this problem? If so, which ones? Nikons? Zeiss? I don't think Canon made a manual aperture lens that I would want to use, but I looked at some of the new Zeiss lenses and they don't have an aperture ring.The ZF (Nikon mount) Zeiss lenses have an aperture ring. You can use them with an inexpensive Nikon to Canon adapter, just like you'd use with Nikon lenses themselves. The Zeiss ZE lenses for Canon mount have exactly the same problem Canon lenses do. You don't have to restrict yourself to totally manual focus Nikkors, you can also use AF lenses as long as they're not "G" types.For video, even 1080p HD, pretty much any Nikkor or Zeiss lens has sufficient quality, so it's more a matter of what matches the focal lengths that you need. If you're a zoom sort of person, that pretty much means Nikon.There's also a trick some Canon timelapsers use that scares the crap out of me. Use a Canon lens, set your aperture, hit the DOF preview, dismount the lens without turning off the camera. The lens is now set to your desired aperture. Cover the contacts on the lens with tape, and remount it. Again, I would not do this, there's just too many things that can go wrong. I only mention it now because, if you're Googling around, you're going to get someone who says "sure, just do this". Well, don't.Can anyone of you Timelapse buffs help me out?Sure. First, rent or borrow the lens before you buy.Second, depending on the severity of the flicker, and your workflow, you might want to try a "deflicker" program like GBdeflicker or LRTimelapse. They. GBDeflicker click on link to continue GBDeflicker GBDeflicker

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Both have free trials.If you want something totally free, but considerably more awkward, VirtualDub has a flicker filter.They work differently, you use LRTimelapse if you have a pile of raws and use Lightroom, GBdeflicker or VirtualDub if you have converted to a pile of JPEGs already or even a video file.Third, don't try that trick with the tape. Seriously, don't.Good luck, have fun.-- hide signature --Rahon Klavanian 1912-2008. Armenian genocide survivor, amazing cook, scrabble master, and loving grandmother. You will be missed. Ciao! Joseph www.swissarmyfork.com Nikon D90 Nikon D2X Nikon D3 Nikon D100 Nikon Z7 +56 more "}"> noirdesir • Forum Pro • Posts: 13,804 Re: It is the aperture, and use Zeiss ZF, not ZE... 3 Joseph S Wisniewski wrote:Despite what the other two "contributors" to this thread said about that being "bogus" or there being a "far more plausible explanation", the aperture inconsistency between shots is indeed the most common cause of flickering in time-lapse sequences.The ZF (Nikon mount) Zeiss lenses have an aperture ring. You can use them with an inexpensive Nikon to Canon adapter, just like you'd use with Nikon lenses themselves.There's also a trick some Canon timelapsers use that scares the crap out of me. Use a Canon lens, set your aperture, hit the DOF preview, dismount the lens without turning off the camera. The lens is now set to your desired aperture. Cover the contacts on the lens with tape, and remount it. Again, I would not do this, there's just too many things that can go wrong. I only mention it now because, if you're Googling around, you're going to get someone who says "sure, just do this". Well, don't.For Nikon users (where the aperture ring does not help as the camera opens and closes the aperture anyway with each shot) I have another trick: Set the f-stop for metering and exposure evaluation and then carefully 'unscrew' the lens a little bit. This will disconnect the aperture lever in lens from the one in the camera and lens will remain stopped down. Just don't unscrew it too much so that the lens doesn't fall off.Using a cheap lens is recommended. (I have done this in the past and would do it again, just checking very carefully that the lens has still enough grip and nothing touches or shakes the lens or camera.) "}"> Re: It is the aperture, and use Zeiss ZF, not